Ads

Tuesday, 24 May 2011

Combating pests in gardening and growing vegetables

To prevent drought, use thick mulching, and mix planting of different species, so that they do not compete for water. Plant your vegetables and flowers shaded by other plants or in places with less sunlight. Do not plant too tight and do not plant too separate to not let bare soil exposed to dry weather.

To prevent root roting, first plant your vegetables and flowers in a good soil, with not too much clay and not too much sand on it, and with lots of fine organic matter. Peat moss is very good to keep constant humidity. Keep watering constant and not irregular. Root roting will occur if plants are growing slowly or are small, and if watering is irregular.

Gnats often only affect plants growing indoors and can rapidly become a pest. Gnats like wet breeding grounds, with organic matter. One way of controlling a pest, is by keeping a layer of sand over the soil around the plant, rather than organic matter. Let the soil dry between waterings. Keep a jar with apple cider vinegar to attract and drown the insects. You can also spread oil over the surfaces, to kill the insects, or sticking labels. If nothing works, you will need to repot the plants in sterile soil.

To control aphids, first wash them throughly with a strong jet of water, and wash your plants with soap, before rinsing. Change place of the plant, and make sure you keep the plant healthy and not too dry and warm. Also plant herbs that attract aphids to send them away from the other flowers and vegetables. Plants like basil attract aphids.

To control maggots, worms in cabbage plants, first plant the vegetables mixed with other plants and flowers, to confuse the butterflies that lay their eggs. Spray compost tea over the plants to repel the pest. If larvae affect the roots, you may need to replant the vegetables. Plant garlic and other repelent herbs around your cabbage plants.

To control slugs, you may have to create dry conditions and remove mulching around plants. Put sharp plastic or sawdust around the plants, because slugs do not like these barriers. If necessary go picking them at night after wet weather.

If plants are weak or growing very slowly, change their place of growing, watch out for potential pests, repot or replant in new soil. Give some fertilizer, such as compost, diluted urine, or spray with compost tea. Keep humidity constant, not too much wet or dry. Another potential cause is a temperature not good for the plant: too much hot for some, too much cold for others.

Sunday, 24 April 2011

The Green Spot has returned!! This time, in Iceland!

And after one year after without gardening, we finally manage to live in a place with a garden space, this time in Iceland, at the ecovillage Sólheimar, where we presently happily live and work.


We have a heated greenhouse-like balcony, facing south, and a small space in front of the house. In just 3 weeks, we started from zero and we are growing now about 150 pots with flowers and vegetables!


I just brought all my seeds, and sown them in eight trays. The temperature indoors is around 22ºC, due to Icelandic geothermal house heating, which makes it perfect for growing vegetables inside.


We reuse hundreds of plastic cups, and also yogurt trays, to where we transplant the tiny seedlings, and while we wait that the weather warms outside (it still snows). This is practical, free and environmental friendly!


The list counts with tomatoes, sweet peppers, eggplant, courgette, oriental salads, lettuce, rucula, spinach, chicory, beets, swiss chard, broccoli, kale, kohl-rabi, celery and celeriac, peas, ginger, several mixes of butterfly and wild flowers, aromatic herbs, and some permaculture rarities such as perennial broccoli ("9 star") or the strawberry spinach (chenopodium capitatum). Below, we show some oriental vegetables such as  pak choi, mizuna, tatsoi or komatsuna spinach, ideal for stir-fry.


We are also attempting to establish some perennial flowers outdoors, such as anemones, ranunculus, dicentra, astilbe and day-lilies. I sown poppies, aquilegea,. campanula, delphinum and nicantra physaloides. And I am trying to grow also allium ursinum, atriplex, jerusalem artichokes, scorzonera, salsify, purple carrots and black potatoes. I have sown some of these indoords, in a dish with wet paper, to see if I could sprout them faster, for later transplanting, when the danger of frosts has passed.


This is a true challenge of Permaculture in polar climates! The weather is still cold and windy. Finally, we wish we could improve our food self-sufficiency, and create in this polar landscape, some color and biodiversity. Let's see how this green experience will run!

Please feel free to subscribe for future posts, by adding your email address in the above bar.

Wednesday, 9 February 2011

Natural cosmetics recipes

Soap can be produced by mixing water and lye with olive oil castille soap and also coconut oil to produce a natural and mild soap. 


shampoo can be produced by mixing water, with a mild surfactant such as decyl glucoside, a plant gum like xanthan gum as a thickener, salt, and emmolients such as coconut oil, vegetable glycerin, honey and essential oils. An alternative to decyl glucoside is the use of saponin containing plants. Natural surfactants include Quillaja saponariaAcacia concinna or Sapindus. Many other herbs have conditioner effects on the hair such as nettles or amla


body butter can be produced by mixing oils (such as a base of olive and coconut oils) with beeswax. A natural body lotion can be produced by mixing water and lecithin, cocoa or coconut butter, and dry oils such as grapeseed oil or thistle oil, beeswax, plant extracts such as witch hazelcalendula or aloe verahydrosols and essential oilsNatural preservatives is cosmetics are a controversial issue; these might include vitamin E (only protects oil shelf-life, not against bacteria or mold), rosemary oil, neem oil, tea tree oil, honey, propolis, salt, vinegar, lemon juice or green tea extracts, or by eliminating the use of water (replacing with hydrosols or aloe vera gel). If this does not work, then using organic alcohol or potassium sorbate are two chemical alternatives, that do not present significant risks to our health. 


A natural toothpaste can be made by mixing baking soda, glycerin and water as a paste, with some antibacterial (e.g. sage) essential oils. There are many recipes for natural cosmetics in the internet. 

Monday, 24 January 2011

How to make natural shampoo

I am currently working in Sólheimar ecovillage (in Iceland) developing natural products, such as soaps, shampoos and body creams. We try to use as most organic and natural products as possible. We want to minimize environmental impact, while using the most natural and healthy ingredients for the skin and hair.

Shampoos are basically a liquid soap (detergent), to which a variety of moisturizer ingredients have been added, to have a certain conditioning effect on the hair.

300 ml water
15 ml decyl-glucoside
6 tsp (12 g) salt
1 tsp coconut oil
1 tsp honey
1 tsp glycerin (from vegetable source)
1 tsp almond oil
1 tsp lecithin
1 tsp guar gum
15 drops essential oils

Recipe: mix the ingredients listed above, one by one, in low heat. Lecithin requires more time and heat to dissolve into the oils. Add guar gum little by little, while stirring vigorously. Confirm that the pH is around 5.5, otherwise use lactic or citric acid to adjust it. Let the shampoo cool and add the essential oils. The shampoo will thicken in the following days.

All of these ingredients are from natural sources. Glycerin can be extracted from vegetable oils (however nowadays is also produced by chemical synthesis); Lecithin is a natural emulsifier (helps oil mixing with water) and is extracted from soy beans or eggs (it's also eaten as a food supplement); Guar gum is a powder obtained from the crushed seeds of an Indian tree (Cyamopsis tetragonolobus), it's used as a thickener (creates the gel texture of the shampoo), and it's added as an ingredient of ice-creams and drinks. Different ingredients are used as emollients (moisturizers), giving the feeling of a soft hair and skin after use: glycerin, honey, almond oil and coconut oil. The essential oils impart some therapeutic effects and a nice smell.

Decyl glucoside is a chemical. It's obtained from reacting glucose from fermented corn starch, with an alcohol extracted from the coconut oil. While still a chemical, it's the mildest and most natural surfactant, to produce some foam. Nevertheless, this shampoo will still foam little, but leaving your hair feeling clean, light and soft. With the exception of decyl glucoside, all the other ingredients are completely natural. Decyl glucoside is derived from natural sources, is very mild for the skin, and is readily biodegradable in the environment. Almost all shampoos have more harsh surfactants, that are more irritant, and some even toxic for the body (see below). Some very strict organic shampoos use decyl glucoside as the best alternative. In this shampoo, we only used 5% of total volume, so it will lather just a little.

Although the hair will feel clean, fresh and soft, the shampoo will not spread easily. I am currently working on a solution for this.

If you want to be close to 100% natural, you can do a natural shampoo, based on castille soap (made from olive oil and lye - sodium hydroxide,  provided that you have used the exact amounts of each to ensure all lye reacted with the oil to form the soap, see soap calculator). However, you cannot drop the pH to 5.5, because that destroys the soap. The alkaline pH (~8.5) of a soap-based shampoo is more harsh for the hair, and leaves it less soft. It can also damage it more easily. Ideally, the pH of every skin and hair product should be around 5.5, because that's their natural acidity. You can adjust the pH by adding vinegar (but this creates smell), or by adding lactic acid or citric acid (which are chemicals derived from bacteria fermentation of milk and lemons). Lemon juice is not good because it gradually bleaches the hair. A soap-based shampoo will be more thick and lather well, but leave the hair less soft and light.

An even more natural alternative is to use extracts from plants that contain saponins, such as soapwort, Soapnuts (Sapindus mukorossi), Shikakai (Acacia concinna) or Quillaja (Quillaja saponaria). These plants create can foam, when boiled, but the effect is much less than that of synthetic surfactants or soap. These plants do not lather as much as synthetic surfactants. I haven't experimented with Quillaja or Shikakai extracts but I have heard that both create quite good shampoos. I will try it and write about it in soon.

Ingredients to avoid in shampoos and cosmetics: parabens, phthalates and synthetic fragances, laureth sulfates, lauryl sulfates, propylene glycol, quaternium, butyl cellosolve, isobutene, dioxin, sodium myreth sulfate, DMDM hydantoin, carmine, talc, triclosan, DEA, MEA and TEA, cocoamide DEA, chroloacetamide, lauramide DEA, ZPTO, PEG-55. Vitamin E, honey or salt, can be used as natural preservatives.

You would be shocked to know how much toxic chemicals do normal shampoos contain. In fact, even organic and all natural labeled shampoos still have chemicals, sometimes even harsh ones! (article the truth about ingredients) However, there are a lot of organic brands which have been using ingredients similar to the one listed above.

Wednesday, 8 December 2010

The Top 10 Plants for Removing Indoor Toxins


A recent NASA study determined the top 10 plants for reducing indoor air pollution.

Dr. B.C. Wolverton, researcher and author of “How to Grow Fresh Air – 50 Houseplants that Purify Your Home or Office”, conducted plant studies for NASA that determined that plants can clean pollutants in homes, offices, factories and retail outlets. 


Top ten plants for removing formaldehyde, benzene, and carbon monoxide from the air:

1. Areca Palm (Chrysalidocarpus lutescens)

Also called the “Butterfly Palm”. An upright houseplant that is somewhat vase shaped. Specimen plants can reach 10 to 12 foot in height. Prefers a humid area to avoid tip damage. Requires pruning. When selecting an Areca palm look for plants with larger caliber trunks at the base of the plant. Plants that have pencil thin stems tend to topple over and are quite difficult to maintain.

2. Lady Palm (Rhapis excelsa)

Also called the “Lady Palm”, this durable palm species adapts well to most interiors. The Rhapis are some of the easiest palms to grow, but each species has its own particular environment and culture requirements. The “Lady Palm” grows slowly, but can grow to more than 14′ in height with broad clumps often having a diameter as wide as their height.

3. Bamboo palm (Chamaedorea seifrizii)

Also called the “reed palm”, this palm prefers bright indirect light. New plants will lose of some interior foliage as they acclimate to indoor settings. This plant likes to stay uniformly moist, but does not like to be over-watered or to sit in standing water. Indoor palms may attract spider mites which can be controlled by spraying with a soapy solution.

4. Rubber Plant (Ficus robusta)

Grows very well indoors, preferring semi-sun lighting. Avoid direct sunlight, especially in summer. Young plants may need to be supported by a stake. The Ficus grows to 8’ with a spread of 5’. Wear gloves when pruning, as the milky sap may irritate the skin. Water thoroughly when in active growth, then allow the soil to become fairly dry before watering again. In winter keep slightly moist.

5. Dracaena “Janet Craig” (Dracaena deremensis)

The Dracaena grows to 10’ with a spread of 3’. Easy to grow, these plants do best in bright indirect sunlight coming from the east/west. They can adapt to lower light levels if the watering is reduced. Keep the soil evenly moist and mist frequently with warm water. Remove any dead leaves. Leaf tips will go brown if the plant is under watered but this browning may be trimmed.

6. Philodendron (Philodendron sp.)

One of the most durable of all house plants. Philodendrons prefer medium intensity light but will tolerate low light. Direct sun will burn the leaves and stunt plant growth. This plant is available in climbing and non-climbing varieties. When grown indoors, they need to be misted regularly and the leaves kept free of dust. Soil should be evenly moist, but allowed to dry between watering.

7. Dwarf Date Palm (Phoenix roebelenii)

A hardy, drought-tolerant and long-lived plant, the Dwarf Date Palm needs a bright spot which is free of drafts. It grows slowly, reaching heights of 8-10’. The Dwarf Date Palm should not be placed near children’s play areas because it has sharp needle-like spines arranged near the base of the leaf stem. These can easily penetrate skin and even protective clothing.

8. Ficus Alii (Ficus macleilandii “Alii”)

The Ficus Alii grows easily indoors, and resists insects. It prefers a humid environment and low to medium light when grown indoors. The Ficus Aliii should not be placed near heating or air conditioning vents, or near drafts because this could cause leaf loss. Soil should be kept moist but allowed to dry between watering.

9. Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata “Bostoniensis”)

The Boston fern grows to 4’ in height with a spread up to 5’. It has feathery ferns which are best displayed as a hanging plant. It prefers bright indirect sunlight. Keep the soil barely moist and mist frequently with warm water. This plant is prone to spider mites and whitefly which can be controlled using a soapy water spray. Inspect new plants for bugs before bringing them home.

10. Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum “Mauna Loa”)

The Peace Lily is a compact plant which grows to a height of 3’ with a 2’ spread. This hardy plant tolerates neglect. It prefers indirect sunlight and high humidity, but needs to be placed out of drafts. For best results, the Peace Lily should be thoroughly watered, then allowed to go moderately dry between waterings. The leaves should be misted frequently with warm water.

Sunday, 5 December 2010

66 Things You Can Grow At Home: In Containers, Without a Garden


From apples and figs, to bananas, guavas and hops


Growing your own food is exciting, not only because you get to see things grow from nothing into ready-to-eat fruits and veggies, but you also don't have to worry about the pesticides they might contain, and you definitely cut down on the miles theyand youhave to travel.

If you're up to the challenge—and it really isn't much of one—growing your own food can be so rewarding. And so much cheaper! Just be sure to choose the right planter or container, learn how tomaintain it properly, and go find yourself some seeds! (Or starter plants.) Like this idea? Be sure to check out these 6 Crazy Concepts for Micro Gardens That Actually Work to get inspiration for designing your own garden in a small space. 


Here's a starter list of all the crazy things even urban gardeners, without space for a garden, can grow at home.
apple tree in container photo
Photo credit: Gardener's Supply

Tree fruits - including apples


1. Apples can be grown in a container; you can also grow them on the balcony or other small space using a technique called espaliering.
2. Kumquats
3. Avocados (plenty of extra tips online if you search)
4. Blackberries
5. Blueberries (sometimes helpful videos are available online)
6. Pomegranate
7. Cherries
8. Figs
9. Pears
lemon tree photo
Photo credit: Photodisc/Thinkstock

Citrus fruits


Citrus trees in particular are said to be good for beginning gardeners and are easy to grow indoors, so don't let inexperience or lack of outdoor space stop you from enjoying fresh-picked, hyper-local fruit.
10. Dwarf oranges
11. Grapefruit
12. Tangerines
13. Meyer lemons
14. Limes

Tropical fruits


Tropical fruits can also be surprisingly easy to grow indoors, even in non-tropical climates. Such as...
15. Bananas (look for container gardening tips online)
16. Pineapple
17. Papaya
18. Guavas (several varieties)
hops plant
Photo credit: © iStockphoto.com/Thinkstock

The real surprises


19. Hops—yes, as in the "spice" ingredient in beer. Turns out they're easy to grow!
20. Aloe Vera
21. Strawberries
22. Tea (well, herbal tea)
23. Quinoa!
tomato plant
Photo credit: © iStockphoto.com/Thinkstock

The non-surprises


24. Tomatoes
25. Summer squash
26. Other squashes, like acorn and pumpkin
27. Hot Peppers
28. Sweet peppers
29. Cucumbers

Melons


30. Small cantaloupe
31. Jenny Lind melon (an heirloom cantaloupe)
32. Golden Midget Watermelon
herbs garden photo
Photo credit: Jupiterimages/Thinkstock

Herbs


Just about any herb grows well indoors—just be sure that if you're going to do any container-sharing, you do your research first about which herbs co-habitate well together. (Some will hog water, for example, and leave the others dried out.)
33. Basil
34. Oregano
35. Parsley
36. Rosemary
37. Chives
38. Catnip
39. Thyme
40. Sage
41. Parsley
kale container garden
Photo credit: Comstock Images/Thinkstock

Leafy Greens


42. Kale
43. Mesclun greens
44. Spinach
45. Swiss chard
46. Lettuces (plenty of options there, from micro-greens to head or loose-leaf)
47. Mustard greens
48. Collard greens
49. Arugula

Root Vegetables


50. Carrots
51. Beets
52. Potatoes
growing wheatgrass photo
Photo credit: Pixland/Thinkstock

Other healthy-sounding stuff


53. Sprouts
54. More sprouts: mung bean and lentil sprouts
55. Wheatgrass
56. Kohlrabi
57. Turnips
58. Rutabagas
59. Celeriac
60. Parsnips
61. Jerusalem Artichoke
62. Sugar snap peas
63. Rhubarb (not ideal in a container, but it can work)
64. Mushrooms (again, more tips online if you look)
65. Pole Beans
66. Aaaand... asparagus, although some disagree that it does well in a container. Try it if you're ok with a risk!
Bonus 67: You can grow your own loofah, too, but you'd need a garden rather than a container for that.
Published originally by Planet Green